Nerdy Curly Girl Method: Hot Water Bottle Method (Outside and In Shower Instructions)

As girls with low-porosity hair knows: our shafts have a difficult time not only getting wet, but also absorbing what we put on it. A specific problem with our hair being so sealed is that water is a key component of moisturizing hair. Without water as our base: it's nearly impossible to truly hydrate our hair. (It's also why it's important to intake fluids for our bodies as well!)

Also as low-porosity girls know: we often struggle with products "staying on top." This ultimately leads to build-up, a build-up of protein overload (large proteins cannot penetrate those shafts) and often dry hair since the products sit on our shafts versus being absorbed as easily as porous hair. While low-porosity is generally considered the 'desired' hair porosity: it also comes with many problems, as does being more porous does.

This is even an issue with more porous hair as well because ultimately -- regardless of porosity -- heat and steam help shafts absorb products which are placed on it. Even though, I designed this method with low-porosity girls in mind: please give it a shot even if you are a high-porosity girl!

Throughout my own journey of navigating my hair, I began to correlate the difference in texture of my hair after deep conditioning with heat (as I always had done per my stylist's mother's instructions) and my feeling when I applied products.

Regardless of what I used, I noticed my hair would not "drink up the products," placed on it after the shower. Within a short frame of time, I easily and quickly deduced that it was not the products which my hair didn't like. It was that my hair needed heat to help said products penetrate! The heat of the shower and the deep conditioning cap were allowing my cuticles to accept the products.

The more hydrated my curls: not only are they curlier -- but they also last much longer! This not only uses water as your 'base' product, but lets your products truly absorb into your shafts hence making your curls more hydrated. If you're low-porosity and or even more porous: see if this changes anything for the better for you!

HOT WATER BOTTLE METHOD INSTRUCTIONS (FOR OUTSIDE OF SHOWER): 

1. After getting out of your shower: completely fill up a plastic water spray bottle with extremely hot water. Section your hair as normal for styling. In my hair on average, I section between 4-8 sections. I have immensely dense hair, so I use about 16oz of hot water to 'soak' my hair again while doing this method.

2. Spray one of your sections with the hot water. After the section is soaked in hot water: apply your styler. In this case, I'd start my regimen by using a leave-in immediately after the hot water. Repeat all sections in the same matter: spray hot water to drench it, make sure it's soaked warmly, apply product, then let it 'sit' so said product can absorb.

If the product doesn't absorb immediately: apply more hot water and scrunch.

Generally: my hair will accept the product once it sits for at least a minute; if not even faster. This is actually a time saver because it allows me to move onto the next section. By the time that my entire head is applied with hot water and my styler (leave-in): it's fully absorbed and my hair feels very soft.

(Please note, however, if your hair still doesn't seem to accept the product: it may just be too heavy for your low-porosity locks!)

3. Do the same method for each styler; especially leave-ins and creams.

4. If you have applied leave-in and or cream: scrunch out excess moisture. By this time: your hair should feel like seaweed as if you did the STC method in the shower. (Remember: STC works so well with curls because it's often hot and steamy in there!)

3. I repeat this step for each of my products from my leave-in, enhancer, and gel (my normal styling combo); the hot water helps my products not only penetrate, but keeps slip in my hair. Once I rewet again, I apply my gel.

I then scrunch out the excess water (just as I do with the leave-in and or cream) then use more gel to create a harder cast.

HOT WATER METHOD IN THE SHOWER INSTRUCTIONS:

1. If STC is your preferred method of using a leave-in: make sure the water is very hot! Before you STC: drench your hair with hot water. The heat will help your hair accept the conditioner because of the added hot water, as well as steam from the shower. However before you 'squish': let your hair marinate in the conditioner, so it truly absorbs it.

2. If you do like applying products in shower but don't STC: section your hair as mentioned above, hit your section with a shower hose of hot water, apply your styler (usually a leave-in is generally first), then let it sit. After it's felt as if it has absorbed then continue on with this method for each styler product as notated above.

I am also sure that you can 'quicken' this method either outside or inside the shower by simply soaking your hair with hot water, but ultimately it works so well because it allows the products to penetrate. If this is too time consuming: simply try soaking your hair with hot water before applying your styles and see if you notice a change.

Hair Porosity 101: Why Is It So Confusing? (Instructions On Proper Testing)

One of the most ‘surprisingly’ common aspects of hair analyses (link here to purchase one) besides strand-width properties is porosity. 

Before continuing to read this article: if you are truly confused by your hair than I highly recommend a hair analysis by Wendy. Not only can she determine all of your hair properties, she can also determine which ingredients, etc. that your hair dislikes it. I recommend these 100%! The more you know, the better your hair will be! It will also be easier for members in our Facebook community to help you with your specific problem(s)/issue(s)!

Just as with dew points and strand-widths: porosity as a whole is often one of the most poorly misunderstood terms in reference of our hair. Just like dew-points and and strand-widths: it also plays a huge factor because it highly impacts how our hair behaves.

Oftentimes within the textured haired community: you will see people recommend the 'basic' float test. This is the test that you will see mentioned briefly online, in videos, etc. without any type of scientific backing to its claim of validity. 

I never recommend this test and often will admit that I have an immense dislike of it because of how bad it often is in its results. 

Wendy of Science-y Blog also discusses the issues of the test, as well. She mentions here how it is often not reliable and then here in the follow up post explaining how to make more accurate. 

However as she mentioned at the top of her secondary post (second link): Wendy gives recommendations on how to make it more reliable and how to make it have scientific verification.

Here’s are Wendy’s recommendations below.

“Make the float test more accurate: 

• Start with clean hair - swish it around in some water with a drop of detergent if your hair has any products (including oils and leave-in conditioner) on it, then rinse and let it dry before testing.  

• Make sure the hair will not come in contact with the edge of the container the water is in.  

• Dunk the hairs quickly (and completely) under the surface of the water to break the surface tension. 

• If your hair has chemically-treated ends and un-treated roots of significant length, cut the hair in half and test those areas separately.  

• Instead of using individual hairs, tie 15-20 hairs together (with a hair if you can) because individual hairs have very little weight - a greater mass of hair can take on more water if it's porous for a more obvious result.  

Interpret your result (if following the instructions above):  

• Hairs float at 5 and 10 minutes: Low porosity or low-normal porosity. Henna may give a low porosity result. Or may also be lower porosity roots and more-porous ends. Re-test the ends and roots separately!  

• Hair partly floating, partly sinking: Possibly more-porous ends than roots if just one end is sinking, or porous hair if half or 2/3 of the hair seems to want to sink. Re-test the ends and roots separately!  

• Hair partly sinking or seems to be just under the surface at 10 minutes: Porous.” [This text is copyrighted and owend by the Science-y Hair Blog and I own no rights to it. I am merely sourcing it for my post. The source is linked here, as well as above. I own no claims to her research, nor her blog.] 

I believe in using her method. However besides Wendy’s method, I also believe in the important to dissecting specific questions for porosity. While I firmly believe that her method perfects the 'water dunking': I also am a firm believer in questions and answers also (which I call 'listening to own's hair') in terms of porosity. 

Why? 

Just as with any ‘diagnosis’ in the medical field: you need to ask questions. Science — just like its medicinal sister — is based on not only testing proofs, but also clinical physical diagnostic proofs. Just as in the medicinal field: it’s also very easy to ‘false diagnosis’ as well without the proper testing. 

Let’s say for instance that you did the instructed regular ‘water dunk’ test which is the one that majority of curly girls use. As stated by numerous scientific sources: it's been debunked as wrong majority of the time. When it is correct: it also depends upon variables such as clean hair which aren't always mentioned to "new curly girls."

So in this hypothetical case: your hair strand was not clean and full of product. Let’s say that you also often use heavy butters, waxes, and other insoluble ingredients which make it hard for water to penetrate your shafts because all butters create barriers; just like silicones. 

Your hair may appear shiny (usually tied to low-porosity), hard to wet (due to barrier), and doesn’t dry quickly (due to build-up and heavy products). Based off this logic and your ‘physical diagnostics’ per the basic water test: you will most likely label yourself as low-porosity and not understand why your hair does not like the generally recommend low-porosity regimen. 

This is a perfect example of why it is necessary to not only do the proper techniques as mentioned above, but also to truly understand how to test your porosity correctly. 

A big fact that I feel is very rarely discussed is that porosity is also a genetic factor! Another fact is that with textured hair: it will be more porous than naturally straight hair. So — for instance — a low-porosity curly girl will be more porous than a low-porosity perfectly straight haired girl. It’s also why low-porosity girl with 4A hair can tolerate heavier products much easier than a 2B low-porosity girl. The tighter the curl, the naturally genetically porous the hair will be regardless of its damage.

There’s three forms of porosities that you can fall under: low-porosity, medium-porosity (also known as ‘normal-porosity’) and high-porosity. 

What makes these different porosities so different? In scientific terms: not only does porosity affect how porous our hair is, but also the state of our cuticles. Let's examine some different forms of porosities below. 

As you see in the photo to the top: there’s huge differentiation between all three levels of porosity.

Here’s an imagery also of a damaged cuticle in comparison to a healthy cuticle which would be considered normal-low porosity as notated in the photo.  

Once again: here's another visual of a porosity difference. You may be scratching your head and wondering what these different cuticles all mean? The cuticles as you see above are all indicators of your hair's porosity, as well as health. A healthy cuticle (low-porosity) will feel smooth due to its cuticles being sealed. Hence why you often hear that low-porosity feels 'smooth and silky' in comparison to high-porosity which is 'bumpy' due to its cuticles being damaged and or raised.

Another important factor to remember — especially — with porosity is that just like our curl pattern and strand widths that it is also VERY LIKELY to be mixed porosity. 

While this often does not get discussed often outside of people discussing their hair analyses: an understanding of porosity is highly integral to our curly haired journey, as porosity plays a huge facet in our hair regimens. 

Just as I often spot mixed strand-widths, I also often spot mixed porosity patterns on curly girls. You may notice that a very common issue that you may see is, “My crown seems to always get weighed down,” — even by confirmed high porosity curlies.A common factor to that is often that the new growth is low-porosity hence not being able to tolerate the same products that the more porous areas can handle. 

You may also notice where some low-porosity curly girls complain that their top layer seems to always “frizz,” and “absorb product.”As we know: our top layers are exposed the most to environmental factors which can have an overall effect on our porosity, so it’s possible for UV rays to affect our cuticles and make them more porous. 

In both of these hypothetical cases: these are examples of mixed porosity!  

MY DRYING TIME TEST (NAKED HAIR) TO DETERMINE POROSITY:

1. 8+ hours to dry is low.

2. 2-4 hours or less is high-porosity

3. In between is normal porosity hair; generally leaning towards 5-6 hours.

This must be done on naked hair without product.

After following Wendy’s advice above as linked: I want you to answer these questions as well. 

These questions — combined with the method mentioned above — will give you a scientific based testing that is far more reliable than the standard dunking which I do not recommend, nor advocate for. 

• What is your actual strand width(s)? 
• Do you dye your hair? If so: what do you use when dyeing? 
• Do you have any form of chemical treatments like perms or relaxers on your hair; i.E, such as a keratin straightening treatment or traditional relaxer? 
• Do you expose your hair often to the sun and are in a high UV area? 
• Do you manipulate your hair while its dry with extreme measures such as dry combing often? 
• Do you have hard water or soft water?
• How often do you expose your hair to choroline?
• If you were to freshly wash your hairs (no product) and sprayed water: do you get 'beads' on your hair?
• Are your shafts bumpy or smooth? (Please remember that coarse shafts can be mistaken for porous shafts due to its texture.)
• How long does your hair take to dry?
• Do products sit on your hair?
• How does your hair respond to proteins?

By answering these questions and following Wendy's test (as posted above), I can direct you to your proper porosity. Please also remember that porosity is often variated throughout your hair; it's generally more porous towards the ends than crown. However UV can take an impact on our porosity as I know first hand. If you have any questions: please feel free to comment here or in the group!

Coconut Oil: Why Does My Hair Hate It?

One of the most perpetrated fallacies is that coconut oil is a protein. It is not. 

As notated by the nutritional charts besdies this text: it contains no protein. 

Look at the right for data on coconut oil's lack of amino/protein properties. [SOURCE]

Now that we have rectified what is often a misconstruction and fallacy often stated: let's break down some major reasons why your hates coconut regardless if your hair loves or hates proteins.

I'll address the most common issue first which isn't actually protein related, but actually due to the often misusage of coconut.

A 'known fact' often said is that if you have coarse hair or truly protein sensitive hair (either seen in coarse hair regardless of porosity or low-porosity): than you will not enjoy coconut oil and will make your hair break or become very brittle.

However that 'fact' is actually FALSE.

A true fact is that oftentimes it can have a protein effect to truly protein sensitive hair because coconut oil is one of the only oils which helps retain proteins to shaft. (This will be addressed below more thoroughly, so please continue reading to understand this brief reference.)

You may be saying, "But wait! You just said that coconut isn't a protein!" But please bear me with me and keep reading the article.

However there are some reasons why your hair may not like hair not like due which is not due to its protein sensitivity. There are actually quite a few truly coarse haired people who love coconut oil and benefit from it. Surprise again!

You may be asking yourself, "How is this possible? Coconut is a PROTEIN!"

However as you see above: coconut oil itself contains no protein or amino acids so therefore coconut oil is NOT a protein.

So why does it behave like a protein for some people?

More importantly: why do so many people seem to hate or love it?

A lot of times people are told if their hair goes hard from coconut oil it is a protein reaction: even if these people are very fine hence protein-craving. This is again a FALSE fact.


Oftentimes the people who say they are protein sensitive who had a bad reaction to coconut use hydrolyzed proteins without realizing it, but claim they are protein sensitive due to adverse reactions to coconut. Why are these people reacting so well to hydrolyzed proteins (which are chemically processed to not only be stronger but more penetrative), but seemingly react so terribly to coconut oil?

Let's address one of the most major reasons why people get 'hard hair effect' from coconut oil -- despite being fine haired and or high porosity which means their hair desperately needs to retain protein which it was losing.

One of the major reasons which is rarely discussed is that the "hardening feel," of the oil in some people's hair is NOT protein effects, but actual solidification!
Coconut oil turns into a solid at room and even more solid at cols temperatures hence why it has been known to harden in peoples hair.

It's not usually a protein reaction: instead it is the actual oil solidifying in the hair and making it "hard." 

Think of it like making candles: it starts out liquified then becomes hardened. The same way that butter becomes liquified in hotter temperatures, but stays remains solid in the fridge. This is exactly what happens to coconut oil. The feeling of 'hardness' is actually solidification. 

Oftentimes people say this is a protein reaction  whereas in reality it is simply misusage of coconut oil.

To properly use coconut oil in colder climates: it needs to be liquified.

Regardless if you are coarse or fine, it will harden your hair because it will solidify.

This is why you need to look for fractionated extra virgin coconut oil which has already undergone a liquifying process.

It's also why I only will recommend to pre-poo with "hot oil treatments."

Many oils can also behave in similar ways.

A lot of oils will solidify hence making your hair hard; that 'protein effect' is often people using coconut oil incorrectly, as I stated above. Or why they may say, "My hair loved it in the summer, but it hates it in the winter!"

In certain cultures such as India where moderately-very coarse hair is the most common strand width, as it in all Asia.


They 'heat' the coconut oil and also dilute it with other oils. There's a specific reason why this is done! It's's because coconut can solidify so easily. India's hot climate is very different to climates such as more temperamental countries such as North and South America which has numerous seasons and different climates throughout them.

Not only that, but in India they often use it as a carrier oil' meaning a base oil for other oils which can't be used by themselves.

In coarse haired people: I have no qualms with using coconut as a carrier if diluted and used properly. Like I said: it will SOLIDIFY.

• If you feel coconut oil made your hair hard: try buying fractionated extra virgin coconut oil then using it in these ways:

• Apply coconut oil to your hair, massage it to your scalp, and use a heating cap. If your home is cold: it will solidify without a form of constant heat. You will need either a traditional heating cap or a Hot Head. 

• Coconut oil treatments are great during the summer time! The heat will allow it penetrate from the heat. 

• You can use a form of hot steam to allow the coconut to penetrate your hair. This is a great idea if you are taking a relaxing bath prior to your shower (if you are using a bath: use a plastic processing cap) then rinse sufficiently. You can also use Q-Redew to help the coconut penetrate. 

The second biggest issue is that -- like all oils -- you need to remove said oils. If you soak your hair in coconut oil without using a detergent which removes it: you will have build-up. Coconut oil will build-up, as easily as Shea. 

Despite what some people will recommend, I will never recommend to use any form of oil treatment without a proper shampoo/cleansing conditioner containing a "betaine," detergent or a SLS/sulfonate detergent.

Let's say you have accidentally used solidified coconut oil, were told it's a protein reaction, cut out protein, and in turn had build-up and protein deficiency? 

This may seem like a random occurrence, but it is something that I see weekly. This bad science is another reason many people experience such bad build-up from Shea, as well, because oils and butters are very specific ingredients which needed to be handled as such.

Now that I've addressed two major factors of coconut oil not working: let's address coarse hair and true protein sensitive hair. 

As stated above: coconut oil is not a protein, but it is scientifically proven to reduce protein loss.

Why would that have an adverse reaction on some coarse curlies? A major fact is due to the fact that majority of coarse curlies are overloaded on proteins and naturally retain protein differently than fine haired (from the excess of keratin that they are born with). 

As stated below in this study, it states why coconut oil is the best oil for retaining protein hence it's why ideal for damaged hair, as well as fine hair.

Let's break down what 'protein' properties that coconut truly has:

"Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss remarkably for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help at all in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft. Mineral oil, being a hydrocarbon, has no affinity for proteins and therefore is not able to penetrate and yield better results. In the case of sunflower oil, although it is a triglyceride of linoleic acid, because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber, consequently resulting in no favorable impact on protein loss." [SOURCE]

You may be asking yourself what does this mean? It simply means that coconut oil is the oil that will not only truly penetrate and will help with protein level. So if you already have excess protein (externally and internally): it can give you a hardened feel similar to protein, since it's penetrating. Since coarse hair does not lack protein (it has an excess): I recommend EVOO which also is proven to penetrate, but is able to penetrate moisturizing effect versus coconut which helps protein levels. 

Protein Issues 101: A Very Basic Introduction

[Please feel to ask questions on this post in the Facebook group for more thorough answers to your specific questions! Please note that this 'Protein' series will be an ongoing blog series for me. Thank you!] 

I'm writing to address the issue of protein sensitivity. This term is used too loosely in my honest opinion.

 In general, we often see many curly girls who suddenly develop very brittle, dry, straw-like hair whose hair snaps immediately while wet. These are all symptoms of excess amounts of of protein. This is called “protein sensitivity.” In general, they're also told that they are "protein sensitive." This is inaccurate a majority of the time.

 Such a reaction does not mean it is a protein sensitivity. It could also be a simple overload of protein. An ‘overload’ is when you begin using too many protein products without any moisturizing agents in your products to keep a proper balance hence creating the protein overload. A lot of curlies experience some form of protein issues throughout their curly journey due to either a disruption in their balance, having coarse and or being low-porosity.

A reason why protein suddenly becomes such an issue also is due to the Curly Girl Method itself. In the original method — and even the more modern form with gentle shampooing — we are instructed to condition. For instance if you were to only to wash with conditioner: this can cause a high risk of over-conditioning. The average co-washing conditioners which are most popular — such as Suave — often don’t contain proteins in them. [I will also be addressing over-conditioning in an upcoming post!]

As you keep co-washing without any forms of proteins than you are high risk of over-conditioning will lead to protein deficiency. This becomes a major problem of over-conditioning for fine curlies who then are advised to use protein which lead to an overload. This same effect can also happen to curlies who use lines like such as DevaCurl (for instance) which use heavy proteins in almost every product. Eventually, their begins to become moisture derived and overloads on proteins.

A majority of protein issues are created by improper usage of moisture and protein; this obviously not applied to those who suffer true protein sensitivity.

Another factor to ‘protein sensitivity’ is that brittle, dry, frizzy, curl loss and a general ‘odd feel’ to hair can also be indications of build-up.

Before determining if your hair is experiencing protein issues: it is imperative to also rule out build-up, humectant issues, as well as proper applications of products.

For those of us who do experience forms of protein issues? What causes it? More importantly: how we can rectify it? Sometimes due to either to specific proteins or even using so many product with protein(s) to the point of creating a protein build-up or overload.

I will explain differences below between true sensitivity, overload and protein overload which can be caused by a true protein sensitivity and or build-up; meaning too many proteins.

• 1. Protein sensitivity: hair cannot tolerate proteins without overloading. Coarse hair will experience this most, but I have seen true sensitivity also in very low-porosity hair. Protein overload; an excess amount of protein. You’ll recognize those symptoms by breakage during the snap test, curl loss, frizziness, straw-like feeling. Regardless if you are protein nsensitive or not, this can be caused by either too much protein or by protein sensitive. Any strong proteins in coarse hair (for example) will cause this issue. 

•  2. Protein overload: when you overload your hair with so many strong proteins — especially on low-porosity hair — that it often behaves as a protein sensitivity. To determine if you’re experiencing a true sensitivity, it’s imperative to clarify then experiment with stylers. This is similar to an overload, but I like to distinguish this reaction from a true protein sensitivity. Many curlies with this type of reaction often return back to using proteins normally. 

I'm hoping to address and inform on protein issues. Not only what causes it, but what to do to rectify it! On the coarseness scale [http://curljunkie.blogspot.com/2010/02/my-2-cents-on-proteintextureporositymoi.html]: my hair ranges from 7-10+. Therefore, it does not tolerate protein well at all. I'm also low-porosity, so my hair is quite healthy; no heat at all, never dyed, etc.

 Low porosity does not absorb well. Due to this: low-porosity hair tends to have proteins sit on the hair shaft vs. being absorbed as well due its cuticle being sealed. For instance: high-porosity hair (unless it is coarse) tends to love grain proteins (large proteins) in quantity, since its so porous that it can absorb it.

LP hair also tends to be healthy, so it does not crave as much as protein as damaged hair for instance. The more damaged the hair, the more protein it craves. This is similar to finer hair craving protein. A large reason why many curly haired brands are so protein loaded is due to the 'presumed' (but sadly often true) common knowledge that many curly girls do have damaged hair.

In general: fine hair will crave protein since what makes the hair fine is a lack of protein.

In contrast to this: coarse hair is caused by too much protein; making the hair strand wider. Coarse strands are the rarest whereas medium strands are the most common.

Medium strands can be on the coarse side or finer side. I noticed people with medium strands on the coarser side tend to have a higher chance when it comes to experiencing true protein sensitivity.

Despite high-porosity hair generally craving protein, it's possible to be sensitive to protein while being high-porosity if your hair is coarse.

In my specific case: my hair is very coarse and low-porosity. Protein is a very difficult thing for me to handle based on these two characteristics.

 Regardless if your hair is coarse and truly protein sensitive like or mine or protein sensitive, I'm using this post to help you understand how to address protein needs or where your protein issues are coming from.

 Before you can correct — or even learn how to work with it — you need to discover the root cause.

 Let's try to discover your cause(s) by answering these questions below. Here are some brief lessons and quick informative answers below.

•  1) True protein sensitivity tends to occur mostly in coarse hair and or low-porosity hair. If your hair is generally healthy: your hair may not crave as much protein as someone with damaged curls. Or if your hair is coarse, you do not need as much as protein therefore your hair is reacting to too much protein — regardless of its porosity. 

•  2) You may just be using too much protein. This is a common mistake. If you use too much protein without any moisture, your hair will overload -- regardless if it's fine, damaged, etc. You need a proper moisture-protein balance for your hair to be its healthiest. If your hair feels crunchy suddenly, it may just be too much protein. A large part of loving your curls is listening to them. Try clarifying with a clarifying shampoo then using a deep treatment without protein and see if your hair feels 'normal' again. If it does: use some protein stylers and see how your hair does. Protein sensitivity symptoms can simply mean that your protein-moisture balance is off. If your hair then reacts to the protein stylers again: you may have coarser hair or being using the improper proteins.

•  3) Protein sensitivity does not mean your hates ALL proteins nor does it mean you stop using protein COMPLETELY. Even in coarse hair, there’s proteins which will be tolerated easily such as keratin. Your hair may hate specific proteins. Your hair may hate wheat protein, but love keratin protein! Or vice-versa. Proteins are not made universally. 

Despite its extreme sensitivity, my hair loves a conditioner with keratin as its “protein boost.” Since my hair cannot handle constant proteins, I use products with penetrative proteins to boost it. You'll know when your coarse needs a boost due to noticing a loss in curl diameter, a seaweed like feeling, and a general softness that is atypical to the coarse texture. In short: look for mild symptoms of over-conditioning. 

Besides chemical proteins -- such as "hydrolyzed wheat' protein," -- your hair could also react to natural proteins such as coconut oil or hops.

While coconut oil won't be as strong as a hydrolyzed protein (the hydrolization process is what intensifies it): it will still be a protein like reaction especially if the products contains hydrolyzed proteins.

 'Natural' (aka proteins that didn't have hydrolysis but contain natural protein properties) will be weaker, so they're generally tolerated better. It's common to be able to tolerate natural proteins easier due to them being weaker. High dews and humidity is when truly protein sensitive people must be careful of over-conditioning.

•  4) As notated above: summer is when proteins are tolerated the best. The higher the dews are, the easier your hair will accept proteins. The same way that your hair will crave proteins in higher dews and humidity. Besides that, the proteins that are most easily accepted are silk amino acids and keratin proteins. If you're experiencing protein-sensitivity: try these two proteins. 

•  5) Before deciding to never use proteins in your regimen: be careful. As someone who has both truly protein sensitive coarse hair as well as a firm belief in science: this will be a disaster. A lot of people's hair cannot handle using no protein.

 As someone who believes firmly in the scientific facts: it will not work to do that. Regardless how much your hair hates proteins, it will eventually require a form of protein at some point.

Like I mentioned above, the protein-moisture balance is important!

If you completely stop protein and potentially disrupt the balance, you could cause a lot of problems with your hair. It'll make you more prone to over-conditioned hair. Too much or too little protein can both serious consequences for your hair. You need to keep a proper balance.

That may mean that maybe you cannot use protein stylers, but can handle monthly protein treatments, iE. This is where I recommend “protein boosts.”

• If you have truly protein sensitive hair: find a conditioner which your hair handles despite its protein, keep it on hand, and use it whenever your hair feels begin to feel limp. The best advice that I can give is to do the protein test at every wash. Wet a strand of hair and stretch it. If it over-stretches and breaks (or nearly breaks) than you need protein. If it does not stretch than you need moisture. If it stretches than returns to its actual size, your levels are balanced. 

•  It's also important to recognize the signs of over-conditioned and over-moisturized hair: it'll feel gooey like, lose curl definition, feel sticky and be limp like. 

• As for protein overloaded hair: it'll be crunchy, straw-like, lose curl definition, be frizzy and possibly even break. 

After consulting the protein test and looking at how your curls behave:

•  1) Start keeping a log on what protein(s) are in certain products. Do you notice your curls look nice with soy protein, but are crunchy and frizzy when using wheat protein? If so: rule out the wheat and see if your curls go back to 'normal' or even become curlier.

•  2) Are you using 6 products with protein (for example)? If so: it may be protein overload caused by simply too much protein without moisture. This is a topic not brought up a lot. 

I've seen some ladies what I refer to as a "protein build-up" which is essentially experiencing extremely overloaded hair by using far too many proteins. It happens mostly to low-porosity curly girls who can't absorb the large proteins. Low porosity needs ingredients -- especially proteins -- which will truly penetrate.

These curlies were using so much protein; stylers, protein treatments, etc. Their moisture-balance was completely disrupted leading to serious breakage. Eventually after avoiding protein for awhile, their curls were back to normal. They were eventually able to use protein, but had to avoid using too much. Balance is truly key. In conclusion: protein sensitivity is complex. You need to really understand what protein(s) are causing it, how your regimen may be causing it to be worse, and understanding the moisture-balance ratio.

When it comes to proteins: whether we're truly protein senstive, low-porosity, protein craving or not than we must sequentially be using proteins properly with a proper moisture balance. As I go on this series, I will address further protein questions and protein 'myths' that are often said without a proper understanding of the scientific aspects of proteins.

Anti-Humectant Products: Conditioners (Protein and PF)

As summer approaches, it can wreck havoc on our curls due to dew points -- as well due to humidity levels. It's often why many curly girls begin to become overwhelmed and frustrated by their curls during this season; regardless of their curl pattern or strand width.

A dear friend of mine is especially humectant sensitive. She is actually who had inspired and prompted me to create an "Anti-Humectant," series of posts.

I will also be making a post on how dew points and humidity play a role in our curls; i.E. when it use humecetants, why certain humecetants will not work, curl loss issues, etc.

It's often common knowledge that glycerin is a humectant and can cause adverse reactions during summer time. However other humectants such as honey, aloe, and sorbitol (just to name a few) are the lesser known ones. These are the not only known ones. There's an array of them ranging from glycerin (most known) to panthenol.

Here's some recommendations for conditioners that are designated to be fully humectant free. 

Obviously this is an issue, so I do notate products with weak humectants. Any conditioners with any form of humecetants, aloe vera and or proteins will be notated.

I will be trying to do numerous posts on anti-humectant products. 

 Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner: you can purchase it here. I'm unsure where else to buy it, but I'd assume that it'd be easily bought at a salon.

• Attributes: mid-moderate priced but often on sale, contains protein, no succulents, no humectants besides panthenol which may act as a humectant but is at the bottom of the ingredients, contains parabens and is not clean, is PETA certified for being cruelty free and vegan

Giovanni ROOT 66 Max Volume:  you can purchase it here. You can also purchase Giovanni liters for $12.99 at Marshall's and or TJ Maxx and regular sizes at Walmart or Target. 

• Attributes: it has both aloe and panthenol but lower down its ingredients, no other humectants, no other succulents, paraben free and clean, certified Leaping Bunny and PETA cruelty free and vegan

Renpure ORIGINALS Argan Oil: you can purchase it here. I've also seen it at Target and Walmart. (Be careful about this one! The 32oz liter shows different ingredients.) 

• Attributes: no humectants except sorbitol at the lower end of ingredients, contains a water soluble silicone, no succulents, free of chemical proteins but contains algae (natural protein), paraben free and somewhat clean, not cruelty free or vegan

Giovanni SMOOTH AS SILK Deeper Moisture: you can purchase it here. You can also purchase Giovanni liters for $12.99 at Marshall's and or TJ Maxx and regular sizes at Walmart or Target. 

• Attributes: no humectants except butylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin, no succulents, contains proteins, paraben free and clean, certified Leaping Bunny and PETA cruelty free and vegan

Giovanni Magnetic Restruxturing Conditioner: you can purchase it here. I've never seen this specific conditioner in stores, but iHerb or Amazon may also sell it.

• Attributes: no humectants, no succulents, has protein, contains olive oil, paraben free and clean, certified Leaping Bunny and PETA cruelty free and vegan

  

Giovanni Deep Repair for Critically Damaged Hair: you can purchase it here. You can also purchase this at iHerb. I'm unsure of other places, but likely a local health food store such as Whole Foods. 

• Attributes: contains no humectants, as proteins, paraben free and completely clean, contains natural certified Leaping Bunny and PETA cruelty free and vegan

EARTH SCIENCE Extra Gentle Fragrance Free Conditioner: you can purchase it here. It's sold at Vitacost in a very large size, but currently out of stock. [This does have glycerin, but at the bottom. I'm posting it for interest's sake.]

• Attributes: contains glyceryl stearate, panthenol, glycerin, paraben free and completely clean, PETA certified cruelty-free, and vegan

SunFood Natural Plant-Based Conditioner: you can purchase it here. I know you can also buy it directly from Sunfood, as well.

• Attributes: no humectants, paraben free and completely clean, claims to be vegan and cruelty-free but there's no certification of such claims

CALIA Purifiying Conditioner for Dry Hair: you can purchase it here. It can also be purchased directly from their website here too. 

• Attributes: contains bee's wax (if that is an issue) so could cause some issues and is not vegan, no proteins, claims to be vegan (with some products) and cruelty-free but there's no certification of such claims [I will be doing more research to confirm they are in fact cruelty free.]

Generic Value Products Conditioning Balm (Reformulated 2017): you can purchase it here. If don't have a Sally's card than it's worth it to buy one. It's also better to buy in store many times with Sally's to save on shipping. 

• Attributes: no humecetants except propylene glycol, contains parabens is not clean, is not cruelty-free or vegan

INNERSENSE Pure Inspiration Conditioner: you can purchase it here. It's available at many natural geared salons.

• Attributes: no humecetants except glycerin near the bottom, has proteins, does have Shea in the middle of the ingredient, is paraben free and completely clean, is cruelty free, some products are vegan and are certified Green/Eco Friendly. [I am currently awaiting for them to be Logically Harmony certified.]

CALIA Moisturizing Conditioner: you can purchase it here. It can also be purchased directly from their website here too. 

• Attributes: contains bee's wax (if that is an issue) so could cause some issues and is not vegan, no proteins, claims to be vegan (with some products) and cruelty-free but there's no certification of such claims [I will be doing more research to confirm they are in fact cruelty free.]

YES TO Scalp Relief Conditioner: you can purchase it here. It's also available at Walgreen's, ULTA, and other local stores as well! 

• Attributes: no humectants except caprylyl glycol near the bottom, contains proteins (but they're weak and often accepted by coarse hair), does contain salicylic acid so may be better co-wash than leave-in/rinse out, no butters, paraben free and clean, Leaping Bunny and PETA certified cruelty-free, is vegan to best of my knowledge but may contain some non-vegan products

SUAVE ESSENTIALS/NATURALS Everlasting Sunshine: I do not recommend buying this online. You can buy the family size (which is quite large) for about $1.99 at most Walmarts or Family Dollars. They're highly elevated (price-wise) online. 

• Attributes: no humecetants, no succulents, does not contain parabens but is not clean, is not cruelty-free or vegan. If you have a dairy allergy: be careful though about the lactic acid! 

V05 EXTRA BODY Volumizing Conditioner: you can purchase it here. Like the Suave, it's also easy to find locally at Walmart or dollar stores such as Dollar General or Family Dollar.

• Attributes: contains no humecetants besides panthenol near the bottom, contains protein, while V05 states that they do not test on animals their parent company does; a much more ethical option than Suave however

LONG HAIR DON'T CARE Conditioner: you can purchase it here. 

• Attributes: no humectants, no butters, may be too heavy if your hair is easily over-moisturized, no protein, cruelty-free and vegan