Thursday, May 17, 2018

Anti-Humectant Products: Gels (Protein and PF)

Alas — the sun is coming! That also means our dew points will be rising sadly to say once more. I do have a previous post of some excellent choices for anti humectants if you’re looking for a hard hold, as well as choices for rinse pits which could work for a leave-in.

However, I’ll be doing various holds here. If you’re looking for strictly hard hold only than please consult my prior post here (which will be updated tonight) which is completely protein free too versus this one which has filler/enhancer, hard hold, and medium hold.

My next post will be creams because who doesn’t need a nice anti-humectant cream? 

iHerb no longer does its singular referral code, but allows me to create a cart which has a  8 code with a specialized discount. This discount will apply 5% off to you and give me a 5% credit in return. The agreement to this is disclosed here. I genuinely love iHerb, helping people find great products, and blogging! These codes also benefit us both! If you buy via iHerb: we both benefit.If you want to understand what the loyalty  credit means: here are the terms. As always —I disclose myself 100% on my blog. 



Kinky Curly Curling Custard: you can purchase it here or here. They also sell 16oz sizes on Amazon. The only time that I’ve ever seen it on sale is at Target. It’s usually locally available at Target or for for store pickup. 

    • Attributes: moderately expensively priced, contains no protein, no humectants besides agave, contains aloe vera, botanicals, no glycerin, certified cruelty free and vegan, clean


Curl Junkie’s Pattern Pusha: you can buy it here. I’d recommend waiting until they have a sale, so you can apply coupons which are accepted on CJ products. Curl Junkie itself does two annual sales: Easter and Christmas.

    • Attributes: moderately expensively priced, contains no protein, no glycerin, has 3 humectants: sorbitolol, panthenol and propylene glycol, no botanicals, no aloe vera, claims to be cruelty free but has no certification, mildly clean

Jane Carter Solution’ Condition and Sculpt: you can buy it here

    • Attributes: affordable priced, contains no protein, no glycerin, has no humectants except pantheol, has botanicals, no aloe vera, contains hops which can cause irritation in coarse haired curlies (natural protein), is PETA certified and cruelty free, vegan, contains a Polyquat and requires shampoo, moderately clean

Alikay Naturals’ Aloe Berry Styling Gel: you can buy it here. I believe you can also find this line in store at Target!

    • Attributes: affordably priced, no humectants, no protein, contains aloe vera, has botanicals, no protein, claims to be cruelty free but no certification, moderately clean



Mill Creek’s Styling Gel Extra Body: you can buy it here

    • Attributes: affordably priced, no humectants besides panthenol, contains protein, not vegan due to Keratin which is animal  product, proteins are well suited for coarse and protein sensitive hair, quat-15 is mainly soluble, claims cruelty free but no certification of such claims, moderately clean

Original Sprout’s Natural Hair Gel: you can buy it here

    • Attributes: expensively priced for a small bottle but not for certified organic, contains glycerin midway down and one other humectant caprylyl glycol, claims to be 100% vegan and cruelty free but no certification, clean ingredients

Giovanni’s LA Natural Gel: you can get it here. It’s also available readily in Whole Foods and Amazon.

    • Attributes: affordably priced, no humectants, contains one weak protein which would be good for low porosity hair, contains botanicals, has aloe, vegan, certified cruelty free, clean, contains organic ingredients

Beautiful Curls’ Defining Gel: you can buy it here. Whole Foods also carriers this entire line.

    • Attributes: affordably priced, contains two humectants which are agave and panthenol, contains aloe vera, certified fair trade, claims to be cruelty free but no certification of such claims, clean


Calia Organic Styling Gel: you can buy it here

    • Attributes: expensive for size, no humectants, no protein, contains botanicals, claims to be cruelty free but no certification of such claims, clean

Camille Rose Naturals’ Curl Maker Gel: you can buy it here. I’d recommend a sale as mentioned above. The old formula contains glycerin. It has been reformulated. Please check! It’s locally available at Target.

    • Attributes: expensively priced, has agave, castor as well as panthenol and caprylyl glycol in terms of humectants, has aloe vera juice, protein free, claims to be vegan and cruelty free but no certification of of such claims, moderately clean

Curl Junkie’s Curls In A Bottle: you can buy it here. I recomend waiting for a Naturally Curly sale.

    • Attributes: expensively priced, no protein, has a water soluble silicone  is an excellent anti humectant, has agave as well as panthenol and caprylyl glycol in terms of humectants, claims to be cruelty free but no certification of, mildly clean

Curl Junkie’s Curl Hair Queen Styling Gel: you can buy it here. I recommend waiting for a Naturally Curly sale.

    • Attributes: expensively priced, contains protein, contains aloe vera, contains panthenol and propylene glycol,  claims to be cruelty free but no certification, mildly clean


Uncle Funky’s Daughter’s Curly Magic Curl Stimulator: you can buy it here (18oz) or here (12oz). It’s also available locally at Target.

    • Attributes: moderately priced, contains aloe vera, contains agave as a humectant, contains  botanicals, certified cruelty free and vegan, clean

Paul Mitchell’s Flexible Style Super Sculpt: you can buy it here.

    • Attributes: affordable for size, contains aloe vera, no protein, 2 water soluble silicones which are good as excellent anti-humectants, contains propylene glycol and ethylhexylglycerin in terms of humectants, certified cruelty free and vegan

Paul Mitchell’s Firm Style Super Clean Sculpting Gel: you can buy it here.

    • Attributes: affordable for size, contains protein, contains aloe vera, 2 water soluble silicones which are good as excellent anti-humectants, contains propylene glycol and panthenol in terms of humectants, certified cruelty free and vegan

Paul Mitchell’s Extra Body Extra-Body Sculpting Gel: you can buy it here.

    • Attributes: affordable for size, no protein, has aloe vera, has propylene glycol but no other humectants, 2 water soluble silicones which are excellent anti humectants, certified cruelty free and vegan


You Go, Curl! Curl Enhancing Gel: you can buy it here. They also offer sample sizes.
    • Attributes: moderately priced, no humectants besides caprylyl glycol, contains aloe vera, contains botanicals, no clear data on animal testing practices

Life Organics’ Silky Custard: you can buy it here. They also have sample sizes!

    • Attributes: moderately priced, no humectants, contains aloe vera juice,  clean, claims it’s cruelty but there’s certification; however I’ll be contacting the company for clarification/reassurance on cruelty free status

Alikay Naturals’ Creme Brulee Curling Delight: you can buy it here.i know they’re also sold in store at Target.

    • Attributes: moderately priced, no humectants besides agave, no protein, contains aloe vera, claims to be cruelty free but no certification, moderately clean

Green Tea’s Curl Glaze: you can buy it here. They also offer sample sizes!

    • Attributes: moderately priced for the size, no protein, contains  aloe vera juice, no humectants besides agave, has botanicals, haven’t discussed their manufacturing yet on cruelty free status but currently their CF and vegan is unverified, clean 
KENRA PROFESSIONAL'S Styling Gel 17: you can buy it here.
    • Attributes: moderately priced, no humectants except propylene glycol and ethoxydiglycol, contains botanical, one small protein that is easily tolerable by truly protein sensitive hair (good for coarse girls), not vegan due to silk protein which is derived by worms, 100% certified brand hence a vegan safe line but not everything is vegan, not clean


Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Hygral Fatigue: Excessive Water Hydration Syndrome & How to Rectify It

Hygral fatigue is a term that you often hear in the curly world today.  I had promised a friend many months ago to write a post on this very topic, but it wasn’t until a dear friend of mine experienced it firsthand that I went onto my drafts of posts. I was surprised that a term that was unfamiliar to many has become quite popular.

It’s interchangeably used with over conditioning (using an excessive amount of moisture causing hair that’s deficient of protein), but we understand it to mean that it’s caused by using an excessive amount of water. I feel that we’re often left confused by the terminology itself. 

Let’s address some of the basic breakdowns:

  1. Is hygral fatigue an interchangeable term for over conditioning? No.
  2. If you are over conditioned are you also experiencing hygral fatigue? No.
  3. Is your hair also over conditioned while it’s hygral fatigued? Yes! (Hence the confusion!)

I prefer the terminology called Excessive Water Hydration Syndrome over the term Hygral Fatigue simply because I am a literal person. Hygral Fatigue earned its definition from the term “hygral expansion.” The definition of hygral expansion is:

“Hygral expansion measurements of woven wool fabrics are influenced by the way in which wet fabric, after relaxation in water, is dried. If the wet fabric is dried directly in an oven, the hygral expansion values are relatively low, but if the fabric is allowed to dry under ambient conditions before oven drying, the values are relatively high (and closer to the "true" values). An interlaboratory trial conducted using thirteen commercial worsted fabrics includes a statistical analysis of different methods for determining the magnitude of hygral expansion. The fabric drying conditions have an important bearing on the magnitude of the dry dimension, and this in turn influences the hygral expansion value obtained.” [Text Source.]

A study of the hygral expansion of wool and yarns is discussed here:

“An experimental study is reported of the hygral expansion behavior of a wide range of laboratory produced and some commercially produced wool woven outerwear fabrics. A fabric hygral expansion apparatus simultaneously measures changes in fabric length and fabric moisture regain which occur when the relative humidity of the ambient environment is altered. Fabric and yam hygral expansion curves are analyzed and discussed in terms of the following parameters: hygral expansion coefficient (slope of the initial linear part of the hygral expansion versus moisture regain curve), hygral expansion at 25% regain, and hygral expansion at 30% moisture regain. F bric hygral expansion behavior depends largely on the magnitude of the weave crimp. The effect of weave construction on the fabric hygral expansion is very small at high moisture regains; at low regains, plain-weave fabrics tend to show slightly higher expansion than the corresponding twill structures of similar crimp magnitude. The effect of fiber properties on hygral expansion behavior has been examined for a series of wool plain-weave fabrics produced from yams of the same linear density.”

Hygral Expansion of Woven Wool Fabrics.  [Text Source.]


If I were to take a piece of yarn, soak it repeatedly, never let it dry, etc.: it breaks down the strength of the yarn itself. Sound familiar?

It’s understandable how a person could have applied this rhetoric to the issue that was being  experienced by textured hair in terms of excessive swelling of cuticles and water retention. 

In layman’s terms: let’s say you have been co-washing daily, sealing in moisture at night (by heavy misting), refreshing, etc. and never allowing your hair to simply be dry; to be short and blunt. Your hair is never dry, you manipulate it, and eventually your hair has began to experience this phenomenon.

I equate this to a plant who gets overwatered. If our curls are like plants who need to be watered than we also can get drowned too! This is what happens when you simply use too much water. Porous hair — especially— will have a higher risk of this happening because it’s easier to penetrate than lower porosity hair. Lower porosity is repellent to water, but porous hair is absorption to water.

Just like too much moisture, protein, etc. can lead to issues: so can too much water as well. Now that we’ve settled what has caused this issue — whether it be too much washing, continually soaking refreshes, etc. or another application that is causing your hair to be soaked excessively: let’s learn more and fix It!

A major factor is that I feel that we need to make a distinguishing difference between over conditioned and Excessive Water Hydration Syndrome. 

Over conditioning is a synonym and interchangeable term for over moisturized hair. It can occur by using too many protein free products, warmer weather, and is more likely to happen to finer haired girls. When your hair is over conditioned: you have an imbalance of excess moisture and deficient protein. It is NOT caused by using too much water and is  NOT  hygral fatigue. If you have symptoms of over conditioning: do a strand test, see if it stretches then snaps, and do a protein treatment. If you haven’t been using excessive amounts of water than you are simply over conditioned. Over conditioned hair has a feeling of being gooey, limpness, and and fluffiness without weight.

The confusing aspect is that when our hair has excessive amounts of water and is experiencing Excessive Water Hydration: it does becomes over conditioned. It’s an effect of the hair becoming weaker. 

People who are experiencing both may present with similar symptoms: the cause and reasonings are extremely different. The lack of tangible  information is also difficult for most people to realize that they’re different. 

If you are not exposing your hair to vast amounts of water: you simply are over conditioned. You will find numerous sources online for remedial practices for over conditioning. In this post: I will address the remedy for over conditioned hair, as it is a major issue affecting those whose hair has been affected by excessively retaining water.

If you have been exposing your hair to water: you do indeed have Excessive Water Hydration Syndrome or as commonly known as hygral fatigue. That also means you’re over conditioned due to one of the many effects of continuously having your hair in a weak, hyper moisturized, and fragile situation.


A big question I feel is exactly why you become over conditioned. Here is a similar to the effect of chlorinated water upon hair that I feel is an excellent example for the scientific mind!

“Chlorine removes natural oils covering hair resulting in loss of hair shine and flexibility, as well as making them more susceptible to mechanical damage. Reaction of chlorine with keratin results in creation of water-soluble chemicals and weakens chemical bonds between fibres forming hair shafts. Also chlorine can get between the hair fibres. As the crystallization process develops inside the hair, the chlorine crystals can separate the hair fibres disrupting structural integrity of hair shaft. Once the bonds are broken, the hair becomes weak and ends of the hairs split. Chlorine salt crystallization process may also affect the hair cuticle. The cuticle is an outer layer of very hard, dead cells over the hair surface. If the chlorine gets between the scales it could push up the scales; therefore, making it rough and prone to damage or breakage. These flaked cuticles reflect light poorly and so the hair fibre looks dull, dry and may feel rough when touched [iv].” [Source Text.]

With the chlorine example: your hair is physically weakened and degenerated by the chlorine — as illustrated here. In the case of hygral fatigue: it’s simply that your hair has been become immensely weakened; similar to why I used this an example. 

In actually: you have been perpetually moisturizing with water (a main moisturizing agent) and conditioning agent while your hair is a fragile state. It’s often why you may notice hair breakage — especially in the nape area which is generally the area most likely to break due to friction. The excessive hydration has left your hair unable to soak in nutrients, weakened, and in need of being balanced. 

How do I know if I have this?

  1. I soak my hair excessively: i.e. either by washing everyday, long misting, letting it be wet, etc.

  1. My hair stretches long at its snap test and then snaps which shows I am deficient of protein. 
  2. My hair feels limp, soggy, and like it has no structure. It is gooey feeling.

  1. My hair has broken or feels like I  am danger in breakage.
If you answered yes to all of those than you have it.

How do I rectify my Excessive Water Hydration Syndrome?

  1. Stop wetting your hair. I’d recommend to wash every 3 days until your hair is normal. Your hair is strongest in a dry state. Try to refresh doing Smaster’s versus a mist — so your hair stays dry. Your hair is weakest when its wet.

  1. Pre-poo using coconut oil. Why coconut oil? As you see below: coconut oil is one of the best oils for helping your hair during times of over conditioning and for repelling water. While all oils are hydroponic (repellent of water): no oils are more adept for this situation. As I expressed months ago: coconut is proven to the best oil for retaining protein in our hair — which is what your hair is struggling for right now, as well as to stop from swelling. I’d recommend to separate your hair, detangle gently, and let it rest for at least 45 minutes with a heating cap of some favor. During this time: make sure to use a detergent.
“Beneficial effects of coconut oil on prevention of combing damage on different types of hair have been established by protein loss and water retention measurements In. vivo, salon-based, half-head tests confirm these beneficial effects. Beneficial effects were also observed on chemically (bleached) and thermally (treated with boiling water) damaged hair. In addition to providing lubricating film, it is hypothesized that coconut oil used as a prewash penetrates endocuticular material in the intercuticular region and reduces its swelling propensity. The penetration of water into the intercuticular region is prevented by hydrophobic film at the edge of the cuticle. Both these effects prevent the lifting of the surface cuticle and its breaking by the force exerted by the comb.” Effect of Coconut Oil on Prevention of Hair Damage. [Source Text.]

3. Just like when your hair is over-conditioned: it’s integral to start your journey with a clarification. Personally, I don’t mind if you use a traditional sulfate or a SLES (the gentler
St and less irritating form of SLS; i.e. sodium coco sulfate which is derived form SLS and coconut oil) in your clarifying journey! There’s also shampoos with olefin sulfonate such as Giovanni Tree which show improvement at removing Polyquats. Whenever your hair is over conditioned: it’s always important to clarify to strip excess moisture and start over. I’d recommend washing twice depending upon hair type. At this point: you should have pre-pooed for at least forty five mins and or overnighted depending upon your regimen. I personally prefer to pre-poo same day.

4. Once your hair is washed: do a strand test. When hair is over conditioned, it will stretch a lot. If you’re coarse: I’m going to recommend a protein treatment such as Curl Junkie’s Repair Me (since keratin is easily accepted), but go with what proteins your hair likes. If you’re fine: I’ll recommend hydrolyzed grains such as wheat and oat since they’re the strongest. Medium can play in between. Repeat protein treatments weekly until your strand test no longer stretches.

4. When it comes to stylers: you need to squeeze out excess moisture. After STC: use a shirt or microfiber towel to absorb moisture then follow up with styler(s) of choice, squeeze, repeat, then diffuse dry. You want to eliminate any additional wetness from your hair. I’d recommend a nice protein leave in. Right now: your hair is protein craving.

Basically, the recovery will mimic over conditioning except that you need to be hyper diligent about your hair being left in its fragile state (wet). Protein treatments, shampoo (look for betaine), squeeze out excess moisture, and try not to excessively manipulate it. As much as this isn’t fun right now: it will get better! It really will!

I would not advise of plopping your hair and also use discretion about co-washing until your hair is balanced. Since your hair isn’t being properly moisturized while it’s being “drowned,”: it likely won’t recover evenly. 

5. Regularly strand test a few extra regions as you recover. If you feel that your hair needs extra protein, but not a full strength treatment (e.g. gelatin or something else) than you can also try implementing a protein rich rinse out into your routine once you feel comfortable again. I advise against co-washing until your hair is evenly strand testing and no longer experiencing a limp and elongated feeling to it. As mentioned above too: oils in general are good to keep your hair from absorbing too much water, but there’s some oils which are moisturizing. Coconut oil’s ability is specialty is what helps aids the recovery of over conditioning.

How can I avoid this happening again or happening at all?

A major factor of why this happens is because I see something called “full wet down refreshes,” (basically drenching the hair in the shower to refresh), being porous (meaning your hair is absorptive), and simply always having a wet head!

Over conditioning is a lot more common than we realize. I think when we go onto these journeys: we don’t realize that frizz isn’t always a sign of dehydration, but often of buildup and also a sign of over conditioning! These two issues go hand in hand, I believe, since the person may believe their hair’s woes is from lack of moisture versus being out of balance.

A great way to prevent this happening is to always assume frizz is a sign of dehydration. You also need to question, “What did I do when this started? Did I  up my moisture? How is my hair actually feeling? Have I lost curl?” Do a strand test, see if your hair breaks while dry if you pull a strand, and if you feel like your hair has lost its suppleness.


It is important to feed your hair the moisture it needs! My hair loves when I mist it! I have genuinely dry hair, but I know my routine would easily over condition many girls. Just like I have dehydrated hair by others’ regimens. It’s important to know what doesn’t work, keep a memory log (by memory or log), and know what you’re doing. It will get better, I promise! Not only will your hair recover, but you’ll know what’s wrong too!

Saturday, May 5, 2018

Nerdy Curly Girl Method: How I Break The Cast & SOTC Techniques

One of my biggest issues originally were finding reliable ways for me to break my cast. My hair does not care for the traditional scrunch out the crunch. Oils (a popular choice) for SOTC which work seamlessly for many are not great in its basic implementation for me. It took a lot to figure out that my hair doesn’t fare well unless there’s modifications that I can make. So in essence I am figuratively and literally ladies and gentlemen a mad scientist! 

A major thing that I want to discus before I discuss my methods is application, products and techniques in SOTC.

I am low-porosity — so the general way that I break my cast is actually by diffusing. You may be saying, “What? That’s super weird!” I actually diffuse about twice or three times total since my drying time is so long. I do it in intervals depending. I use my first diffuse to just absorb the soaking wetness then do my clipping. After my hair clips are set: my ‘cast’ begins to sit. After a few hours has ticked off: my hair is no longer soaking. However, my hair has definitely really formed its cast. As it dries more, I may pop back to diffuse again. At its 90% dryness: the only damp areas are the nape and bottom layers. It depends on the weather, but I definitely rotate between dampness to SOTC. I rotate between 90-95% to break my final cast. My hair will look very crunchy at this point. 

If you’re experiencing low or high dews at this point: you may also want to re-evaluate what you’re using to break your cast with too. Why? A lot of people say to me, “My hair frizzes up after SOTC. I can’t break my cast or it frizzes.” A big question is what are you using to SOTC? Butters and oils are natural anti-humectants which are great for this type of weather. Not to mention as well as for formidable summer and dry winter. In my opinion: it’s great year round if you’re prone to frizz and climate is erratic like many people’s are. Like any product: you need to pick the proper oil, the proper balm, and for your hair type. Some people’s hair doesn’t far well with introducing products for SOTC and others need it because they’re very porous. Pick for your hair; not her hair! Remember that! 

If you have halo frizz only at SOTC: has it always been like this or just starting? My halo frizz was worse prior to these modifications. However, I also glaze (moving your palm down your hand your hair as if rubbing it) my balm or oil downwards. You may also try patting. 

If it really frizzes badly: what are your dews? A lot of times — I think SOTC is not always the problem, but sometimes an indication of ill suited regimen. If you notice frizz prior to SOTC than recheck. If it does not exist prior to SOTC than try these methods. 

If you feel like implementing products weigh you down: keep reading downwards as I give ideas for finer hair. I also would try to remember that just because one oil doesn’t work doesn’t mean all won’t work; same as balms or pomades. Look for light and penetrating. You also need to lubricate your hands to break the cast versus “soak your hair.” 

If you wager on the coarse side — like me — or the more porous side — than you may need help to SOTC. My hair really loves a good balm made up rich oils in a blend of oil. I emulsify it in my hands as written below. 

Generally in traditional SOTC: you’ll find that girls do it bare handed or use some oil. I do implement oil, but not in the typical way — as I’ll explain further below.

I find that the most frizz is caused in SOTC by the movement and our hands themselves. It’s why I’ve found that diffusing at 95% wetness with my cast to be excellent. Once my hair is fully dry: the cast will be there, but I use my diffuser like I would my hands to break it. Since the diffuser is plastic, it moves seamlessly. The air also helps break down the cast as well. Similar to applying pressure on something. 


HOW I BREAK THE CAST WITH MY DIFFUSER:

  1. I take my diffuser, on cold, low speed, and cup my curls gently. I put 1/4 at estimation into the diffuser bowl. I lift upwards to my scalp. I go very, very slow.
  2. Cup sections, massaging your curls as if your were to SOTC manually. 
  3. Replicate the steps with the diffuser as you would with your hands then stop once the cast has broken. It should be broken in maybe 3-5 minutes depending upon density. It should look exactly like a diffusing and scrunching session.

Now this is an unusual SOTC, but it works because it breaks the cast and also keeps your hair how you want it. No fingers in your hair, no touching and no disturbance. The diffuser can also add some volume too. I’ll break my cast sometimes at 90% dryness because I implement my diffuser to help me. I prefer to massage 

I have some other unusual SOTC techniques too! I’ll mention them below. 

I don’t find that applying the basic oil technique to work, but I do like implementing oil(s). Not all oils are equal and or suited for your hair type.

When it comes to SOTC oils: I like to look for oils which are penetrative — so when I refresh, it hasn’t created a barrier for buildup or made my hair feel layered. I tend to prefer my favorite EVOO, Argan, my homemade oil blends or oil balms which are made of rich butters (natural anti humectants) and moisturizing oils.


NCG’S USAGE OF OIL IN SOTC:

  1. Apply balm or oil to hands and rub for at least 20 seconds in between hands to ‘heat up’ the balm/oil. Your hands should have the balm/oil all over them to be completely coated.

  1. Apply oil to ends first, let the oil really work in before moving.

  1. Glaze remainder of oil to crown as if you were applying a gel; moving your hands in a downwards stream like a rub.

  1. Flip head over and glaze. Repeat #1. I like to apply some to anywhere that’s super crunchy if need be.

  1. Apply some to your scalp, give a nice stimulating massage, and fluff curls to release the cast and let curls decompress from scalp for more volume. 

  1. I prefer to oil my hair pick with either my balm or my oil blend to lift my roots since gel makes my root curls so tight. The oil will help fight the dreaded halo frizz! 

What are some things that finer girls or LP girls can use to SOTC?

  1. Leave in conditioner! Use the leave in of your choice, rub it in your hands for 20 seconds, graze lightly as you would normally in SOTC or like the oil steps and scrunch out the cast! 

  1. The oil regimen notated is a good idea, but don’t try to go for a heavy oil; e.g. olive oil. Go for a light oil such as grapeseed! You want oils that penetrate —so they penetrate your shafts, not sit on top. 

  1. Using a silk scarf to scrunch out the crunch instead of any products — in case your hair gets weighed down. This is a  similar effect to the diffuse method, but a lot faster! I love using my silk scarf to SOTC. No frizz, fast and easy, and no products.

  1. Pomades (by organic or natural companies) often have rich oils which are moisturizing, but with hold. If you’re fine, frizz prone or wavy than these may be perfect additions to break the cast. 

When it comes to my day to day: I’m on the go sometimes and simply can’t always use the diffuse replication SOTC.

In these cases: I shake my head. I will flip my head or just shake it side to sides to break the cast and let my curls fall where they may. The movement helps my curls once again move from the clumps — as well as the cast. I like to carry some pomade or balm in my bag, but don’t always. If I don’t: I’ll do some very, very slow scrunching at the bottom then pat my hair to the side to help break any cast.

I find that I get a similar effect too if I put my hair up in a pineapple, sleep and then let it down when I  wake up. Once I take off my bonnet: I get a loosened cast, shake my curls out, and I shuffle my roots with my fingers. I either add some oil via the steps above with my fingers to lift my roots from the gel that makes my roots form close. I’m set to go!


Once again — SOTC is highly individualistic and varied. There’s numerous ways to do it. You need to work with what works for your hair; not everyone else’s. If you’re prone to frizz than try my ways (as in multiples!) and let me know how it goes! I like to experiment and play with things to fit my lifestyle as well as every unique spiral on my head. SOTC when I’m practically dry with my diffuser as my hands help me a lot more than if I were to use my hands. I also love when I use my silk scarf as well. There’s so many variations. 

Anti-Humectant Products: Creams (PF and Protein)

It’s that time again! I’m continuing the humectant free series. On hindsight: I realized that I have never once posted any creams on my blo...