Coconut Oil: Why Does My Hair Hate It?

One of the most perpetrated fallacies is that coconut oil is a protein. It is not. 

As notated by the nutritional charts besdies this text: it contains no protein. 

Look at the right for data on coconut oil's lack of amino/protein properties. [SOURCE]

Now that we have rectified what is often a misconstruction and fallacy often stated: let's break down some major reasons why your hates coconut regardless if your hair loves or hates proteins.

I'll address the most common issue first which isn't actually protein related, but actually due to the often misusage of coconut.

A 'known fact' often said is that if you have coarse hair or truly protein sensitive hair (either seen in coarse hair regardless of porosity or low-porosity): than you will not enjoy coconut oil and will make your hair break or become very brittle.

However that 'fact' is actually FALSE.

A true fact is that oftentimes it can have a protein effect to truly protein sensitive hair because coconut oil is one of the only oils which helps retain proteins to shaft. (This will be addressed below more thoroughly, so please continue reading to understand this brief reference.)

You may be saying, "But wait! You just said that coconut isn't a protein!" But please bear me with me and keep reading the article.

However there are some reasons why your hair may not like hair not like due which is not due to its protein sensitivity. There are actually quite a few truly coarse haired people who love coconut oil and benefit from it. Surprise again!

You may be asking yourself, "How is this possible? Coconut is a PROTEIN!"

However as you see above: coconut oil itself contains no protein or amino acids so therefore coconut oil is NOT a protein.

So why does it behave like a protein for some people?

More importantly: why do so many people seem to hate or love it?

A lot of times people are told if their hair goes hard from coconut oil it is a protein reaction: even if these people are very fine hence protein-craving. This is again a FALSE fact.


Oftentimes the people who say they are protein sensitive who had a bad reaction to coconut use hydrolyzed proteins without realizing it, but claim they are protein sensitive due to adverse reactions to coconut. Why are these people reacting so well to hydrolyzed proteins (which are chemically processed to not only be stronger but more penetrative), but seemingly react so terribly to coconut oil?

Let's address one of the most major reasons why people get 'hard hair effect' from coconut oil -- despite being fine haired and or high porosity which means their hair desperately needs to retain protein which it was losing.

One of the major reasons which is rarely discussed is that the "hardening feel," of the oil in some people's hair is NOT protein effects, but actual solidification!
Coconut oil turns into a solid at room and even more solid at cols temperatures hence why it has been known to harden in peoples hair.

It's not usually a protein reaction: instead it is the actual oil solidifying in the hair and making it "hard." 

Think of it like making candles: it starts out liquified then becomes hardened. The same way that butter becomes liquified in hotter temperatures, but stays remains solid in the fridge. This is exactly what happens to coconut oil. The feeling of 'hardness' is actually solidification. 

Oftentimes people say this is a protein reaction  whereas in reality it is simply misusage of coconut oil.

To properly use coconut oil in colder climates: it needs to be liquified.

Regardless if you are coarse or fine, it will harden your hair because it will solidify.

This is why you need to look for fractionated extra virgin coconut oil which has already undergone a liquifying process.

It's also why I only will recommend to pre-poo with "hot oil treatments."

Many oils can also behave in similar ways.

A lot of oils will solidify hence making your hair hard; that 'protein effect' is often people using coconut oil incorrectly, as I stated above. Or why they may say, "My hair loved it in the summer, but it hates it in the winter!"

In certain cultures such as India where moderately-very coarse hair is the most common strand width, as it in all Asia.


They 'heat' the coconut oil and also dilute it with other oils. There's a specific reason why this is done! It's's because coconut can solidify so easily. India's hot climate is very different to climates such as more temperamental countries such as North and South America which has numerous seasons and different climates throughout them.

Not only that, but in India they often use it as a carrier oil' meaning a base oil for other oils which can't be used by themselves.

In coarse haired people: I have no qualms with using coconut as a carrier if diluted and used properly. Like I said: it will SOLIDIFY.

• If you feel coconut oil made your hair hard: try buying fractionated extra virgin coconut oil then using it in these ways:

• Apply coconut oil to your hair, massage it to your scalp, and use a heating cap. If your home is cold: it will solidify without a form of constant heat. You will need either a traditional heating cap or a Hot Head. 

• Coconut oil treatments are great during the summer time! The heat will allow it penetrate from the heat. 

• You can use a form of hot steam to allow the coconut to penetrate your hair. This is a great idea if you are taking a relaxing bath prior to your shower (if you are using a bath: use a plastic processing cap) then rinse sufficiently. You can also use Q-Redew to help the coconut penetrate. 

The second biggest issue is that -- like all oils -- you need to remove said oils. If you soak your hair in coconut oil without using a detergent which removes it: you will have build-up. Coconut oil will build-up, as easily as Shea. 

Despite what some people will recommend, I will never recommend to use any form of oil treatment without a proper shampoo/cleansing conditioner containing a "betaine," detergent or a SLS/sulfonate detergent.

Let's say you have accidentally used solidified coconut oil, were told it's a protein reaction, cut out protein, and in turn had build-up and protein deficiency? 

This may seem like a random occurrence, but it is something that I see weekly. This bad science is another reason many people experience such bad build-up from Shea, as well, because oils and butters are very specific ingredients which needed to be handled as such.

Now that I've addressed two major factors of coconut oil not working: let's address coarse hair and true protein sensitive hair. 

As stated above: coconut oil is not a protein, but it is scientifically proven to reduce protein loss.

Why would that have an adverse reaction on some coarse curlies? A major fact is due to the fact that majority of coarse curlies are overloaded on proteins and naturally retain protein differently than fine haired (from the excess of keratin that they are born with). 

As stated below in this study, it states why coconut oil is the best oil for retaining protein hence it's why ideal for damaged hair, as well as fine hair.

Let's break down what 'protein' properties that coconut truly has:

"Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss remarkably for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help at all in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft. Mineral oil, being a hydrocarbon, has no affinity for proteins and therefore is not able to penetrate and yield better results. In the case of sunflower oil, although it is a triglyceride of linoleic acid, because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber, consequently resulting in no favorable impact on protein loss." [SOURCE]

You may be asking yourself what does this mean? It simply means that coconut oil is the oil that will not only truly penetrate and will help with protein level. So if you already have excess protein (externally and internally): it can give you a hardened feel similar to protein, since it's penetrating. Since coarse hair does not lack protein (it has an excess): I recommend EVOO which also is proven to penetrate, but is able to penetrate moisturizing effect versus coconut which helps protein levels.