Nerdy Curly Girl Method: How I Break The Cast & SOTC Techniques

One of my biggest issues originally were finding reliable ways for me to break my cast. My hair does not care for the traditional scrunch out the crunch. Oils (a popular choice) for SOTC which work seamlessly for many are not great in its basic implementation for me. It took a lot to figure out that my hair doesn’t fare well unless there’s modifications that I can make. So in essence I am figuratively and literally ladies and gentlemen a mad scientist! 

A major thing that I want to discus before I discuss my methods is application, products and techniques in SOTC.

I am low-porosity — so the general way that I break my cast is actually by diffusing. You may be saying, “What? That’s super weird!” I actually diffuse about twice or three times total since my drying time is so long. I do it in intervals depending. I use my first diffuse to just absorb the soaking wetness then do my clipping. After my hair clips are set: my ‘cast’ begins to sit. After a few hours has ticked off: my hair is no longer soaking. However, my hair has definitely really formed its cast. As it dries more, I may pop back to diffuse again. At its 90% dryness: the only damp areas are the nape and bottom layers. It depends on the weather, but I definitely rotate between dampness to SOTC. I rotate between 90-95% to break my final cast. My hair will look very crunchy at this point. 

If you’re experiencing low or high dews at this point: you may also want to re-evaluate what you’re using to break your cast with too. Why? A lot of people say to me, “My hair frizzes up after SOTC. I can’t break my cast or it frizzes.” A big question is what are you using to SOTC? Butters and oils are natural anti-humectants which are great for this type of weather. Not to mention as well as for formidable summer and dry winter. In my opinion: it’s great year round if you’re prone to frizz and climate is erratic like many people’s are. Like any product: you need to pick the proper oil, the proper balm, and for your hair type. Some people’s hair doesn’t far well with introducing products for SOTC and others need it because they’re very porous. Pick for your hair; not her hair! Remember that! 

If you have halo frizz only at SOTC: has it always been like this or just starting? My halo frizz was worse prior to these modifications. However, I also glaze (moving your palm down your hand your hair as if rubbing it) my balm or oil downwards. You may also try patting. 

If it really frizzes badly: what are your dews? A lot of times — I think SOTC is not always the problem, but sometimes an indication of ill suited regimen. If you notice frizz prior to SOTC than recheck. If it does not exist prior to SOTC than try these methods. 

If you feel like implementing products weigh you down: keep reading downwards as I give ideas for finer hair. I also would try to remember that just because one oil doesn’t work doesn’t mean all won’t work; same as balms or pomades. Look for light and penetrating. You also need to lubricate your hands to break the cast versus “soak your hair.” 

If you wager on the coarse side — like me — or the more porous side — than you may need help to SOTC. My hair really loves a good balm made up rich oils in a blend of oil. I emulsify it in my hands as written below. 

Generally in traditional SOTC: you’ll find that girls do it bare handed or use some oil. I do implement oil, but not in the typical way — as I’ll explain further below.

I find that the most frizz is caused in SOTC by the movement and our hands themselves. It’s why I’ve found that diffusing at 95% wetness with my cast to be excellent. Once my hair is fully dry: the cast will be there, but I use my diffuser like I would my hands to break it. Since the diffuser is plastic, it moves seamlessly. The air also helps break down the cast as well. Similar to applying pressure on something. 

HOW I BREAK THE CAST WITH MY DIFFUSER:

1. I take my diffuser, on cold, low speed, and cup my curls gently. I put 1/4 at estimation into the diffuser bowl. I lift upwards to my scalp. I go very, very slow.
2. Cup sections, massaging your curls as if your were to SOTC manually. 
3. Replicate the steps with the diffuser as you would with your hands then stop once the cast has broken. It should be broken in maybe 3-5 minutes depending upon density. It should look exactly like a diffusing and scrunching session.

Now this is an unusual SOTC, but it works because it breaks the cast and also keeps your hair how you want it. No fingers in your hair, no touching and no disturbance. The diffuser can also add some volume too. I’ll break my cast sometimes at 90% dryness because I implement my diffuser to help me. I prefer to massage 

I have some other unusual SOTC techniques too! I’ll mention them below. 

I don’t find that applying the basic oil technique to work, but I do like implementing oil(s). Not all oils are equal and or suited for your hair type.

When it comes to SOTC oils: I like to look for oils which are penetrative — so when I refresh, it hasn’t created a barrier for buildup or made my hair feel layered. I tend to prefer my favorite EVOO, Argan, my homemade oil blends or oil balms which are made of rich butters (natural anti humectants) and moisturizing oils.

NCG’S USAGE OF OIL IN SOTC:

1. Apply balm or oil to hands and rub for at least 20 seconds in between hands to ‘heat up’ the balm/oil. Your hands should have the balm/oil all over them to be completely coated.

2. Apply oil to ends first, let the oil really work in before moving.

3. Glaze remainder of oil to crown as if you were applying a gel; moving your hands in a downwards stream like a rub.

4. Flip head over and glaze. Repeat #1. I like to apply some to anywhere that’s super crunchy if need be.

5. Apply some to your scalp, give a nice stimulating massage, and fluff curls to release the cast and let curls decompress from scalp for more volume. 

6. I prefer to oil my hair pick with either my balm or my oil blend to lift my roots since gel makes my root curls so tight. The oil will help fight the dreaded halo frizz! 

What are some things that finer girls or LP girls can use to SOTC?

1. Leave in conditioner! Use the leave in of your choice, rub it in your hands for 20 seconds, graze lightly as you would normally in SOTC or like the oil steps and scrunch out the cast! 

2. The oil regimen notated is a good idea, but don’t try to go for a heavy oil; e.g. olive oil. Go for a light oil such as grapeseed! You want oils that penetrate —so they penetrate your shafts, not sit on top. 

3. Using a silk scarf to scrunch out the crunch instead of any products — in case your hair gets weighed down. This is a  similar effect to the diffuse method, but a lot faster! I love using my silk scarf to SOTC. No frizz, fast and easy, and no products.

4. Pomades (by organic or natural companies) often have rich oils which are moisturizing, but with hold. If you’re fine, frizz prone or wavy than these may be perfect additions to break the cast. 

When it comes to my day to day: I’m on the go sometimes and simply can’t always use the diffuse replication SOTC.

In these cases: I shake my head. I will flip my head or just shake it side to sides to break the cast and let my curls fall where they may. The movement helps my curls once again move from the clumps — as well as the cast. I like to carry some pomade or balm in my bag, but don’t always. If I don’t: I’ll do some very, very slow scrunching at the bottom then pat my hair to the side to help break any cast.

I find that I get a similar effect too if I put my hair up in a pineapple, sleep and then let it down when I  wake up. Once I take off my bonnet: I get a loosened cast, shake my curls out, and I shuffle my roots with my fingers. I either add some oil via the steps above with my fingers to lift my roots from the gel that makes my roots form close. I’m set to go!

Once again — SOTC is highly individualistic and varied. There’s numerous ways to do it. You need to work with what works for your hair; not everyone else’s. If you’re prone to frizz than try my ways (as in multiples!) and let me know how it goes! I like to experiment and play with things to fit my lifestyle as well as every unique spiral on my head. SOTC when I’m practically dry with my diffuser as my hands help me a lot more than if I were to use my hands. I also love when I use my silk scarf as well. There’s so many variations.