As a curly girl, I believe one of the most confusing aspects of our hair is when it comes to what knowing what cleanser to use. Which product will remove ___? If my hair is suddenly feeling gunky: what do I use? Will my conditioner truly remove this dirt?
It's also very common for people in the curly hair community to not always understand about detergents or misconstrued certain scientific elements. This is completely understandable due to cleansing agents not being stressed often.
An integral aspect of the 'original' Curly Girl Method is that it does not allow for traditional sulfate or any silicone usage.
An integral aspect of the 'original' Curly Girl Method is that it does not allow for traditional sulfate or any silicone usage.
The main purpose of avoiding sulfates (since we're focused solely on detergents) in this method is due to its harsh stripping effects.
Textured hair is naturally drier than straight hair -- due to natural oils not being able to move down easily. Therefore it's extremely easy to over strip our hair.
Let me attest that I do believe and follow the CG Method. However as someone whose foundation includes abiding to facts, I can't say that every aspect of it is "perfect."
I am a firm believer in clarifying -- even if it's considered 'not CG Friendly' by its own rules. Without clarifying, you're risking your follicular health as well as scalp health. This is an issue, too, why some many women experience itchy scalps.
Besides clarifying regularly, it's often necessary to use a form of a strong yet mild detergent.
A major reason why cleansing agents are often misunderstood is due to the method's dismal of cleansing agents. Very rarely will see you a post online or in a group discussing which cleanser to use.
This is a cheat sheet as to when you need a specific cleanser.
Plain conditioner with one or more ingredients containing "___ chloride," = can remove sebum and loose soluble dirt. To truly cleanse: co-wash twice. I recommend a shampoo brush and or scrubbing extensively. The wetter something is, the easier it is to cleanse hence why I support the double shampoo method.
Rinse out conditioners often contain a cationic surfactant such as "cetrimonium chloride."
This ingredient (for example) has very mild cleansing properties, anti static properties, and anti microbial properties. The surfactants in it can cause issues such as coating in some shafts.
Apple Cider Vinegar = can remove sebum, loose soluble dirt, close cuticles, increase shine, and help with dandruff. It CANNOT remove any form of insoluble build-up such as silicone, waxes, butters, etc. It's often advised to 'clarify' the hair with ACV, but in reality: it doesn't do anything. The increased shine and softness is due to its ability close cuticles, not remove build-up.
Decyl / Coco Glucoside and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate = will remove sebum, soluble ingredients, and very mild build-up. To really cleanse with this, it's integral to wash twice. This will NOT remove silicones, build-up, etc. This is a great option if you're prone to a 'dirty scalp' and have very dry hair. However it is NOT great if you're low-porosity, prone to build-up, or use heavier products.
Cocamidopropyl / Coco Betaine: will remove all silicones and mild-moderate build-up. It can remove EVOO and coconut oil with ease. It's great for many insoluble ingredients t hat act as silicone. It will NOT remove butters (such as Shea or Mango butters), waxes, specific oils, or minerals.
Olefin sulfonate: will remove everything -- including minerals from water -- and is as powerful as traditional SLS. It can be very drying if over-used, but is derived naturally so it's not as harsh due to missing the heavy chemical processing. If used excessively: it's no different than using a sulfate. Use this in your clarifying shampoo. It's an excellent ingredient due to its strength.
